As for which method is best, it pretty
much comes down to choosing the one you're most comfortable
with using. Never sharpen your knife on a power-grinding
wheel as this can burn the temper out of the blade
and weaken its integrity.
Most of our blade steels have a very high carbon
content, which enables them to hold a superior cutting
edge. Unfortunately, carbon is also the element that
causes rust so, preventive care is needed if the knife
is used in humid or marine environments. To aid in
the cleaning of rust on the blades, we recommend using
a thin coating of oil or lubricant.
Never attempt to use your knife as a screwdriver,
pry-bar, chisel, or punch. Never throw your knife.
It was not designed for those purposes. Use for any
purpose other than cutting is considered abuse and
is not covered under the International Culinary Warranty.
Most of all, Please enjoy your new knife
and always remember to use it in a safe, responsible
manner and thank you for choosing Chef Harvey's
As for sharpening itself, it doesn't make
any difference what kind of blade you have. Sharp
is sharp, whether you're cutting whiskers, leather,
wood, or meat. When you begin a sharpening job, remember
the two critical steps. First, do a good job of tapering
the edge back with the coarse hone. This produces
blade relief, and is the most important part of sharpening
(the diagrams show why). A blade with good relief
will sharpen easily to a high-quality edge. Second,
set the primary cutting edges with your fine hone.
Don't get too anxious, pay attention to your angles,
and you'll always be able to get a knife-edge that
will shave the hair on your arms without touching
Proper Sharpening Angle
Edge design starts with a decision on how much taper
to build in, and is determined by what you plan to
do with the edge. The rule is to taper it back just
short of the point at which it will collapse when
worked most severely.
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